APC-boks Saab 9000T 88mod
Moderator: Moderatorer
-
- 2.0 bar
- Innlegg: 700
- Registrert: 13 feb 2007, 23:27
- Medlemsnummer: N996
- Bil: SAAB 9-5 Aero 2001mod
- Sted: Nordland (Br.sund)
APC-boks Saab 9000T 88mod
Hvor sitter boksen på 88modellen?
På 85modellen er den under rattet. Men på 88 modellen kan jeg ikke se noen boks der. Om jeg ikke er blind da?:P
- Tenkte jeg skulle sette over APc-boks og "hjernen" fra 85modellen til 88modellen. Siden det er Speedparts chip på den som er 85mod. Er ikke disse boksene akkurat samme?
PS. 87modell motor i den bilen som er 85mod, om noen forstår:P.
På 85modellen er den under rattet. Men på 88 modellen kan jeg ikke se noen boks der. Om jeg ikke er blind da?:P
- Tenkte jeg skulle sette over APc-boks og "hjernen" fra 85modellen til 88modellen. Siden det er Speedparts chip på den som er 85mod. Er ikke disse boksene akkurat samme?
PS. 87modell motor i den bilen som er 85mod, om noen forstår:P.
Saab 9-5 Aero, 2001mod
- Bjørk N1057
- 1,5 bar
- Innlegg: 311
- Registrert: 12 mai 2007, 12:11
- Medlemsnummer: N1057
- Navn: Øivind Bjørklund
- Sted: Rykkinn, Bærum
- Ingvar N629
- MAX BOOST
- Innlegg: 12871
- Registrert: 14 mar 2006, 16:41
- Medlemsnummer: 629
- Navn: Ingvar Garåsen
- Bil: 9-5, 9-3SS, 900, Sonett
- Sted: Rissa
Ja, de passer om hverandre, men er ikke sikkert de er stilt inn likt. Det har uansett ikke noe å si når din boks er lodda om.
Mean effective pressure is the substitute for cubic inches!
M09 Saab 9-3 Aero XWD, B207R+
M03 Saab 9-5 Aero Hirsch original Troll R 305 hk
M02 Saab 9-5 Aero B235R, konebilen
M94 Saab 900 B202L cabriolet
M72 Saab Sonett III, morobilprosjekt uten tidsplan
M09 Saab 9-3 Aero XWD, B207R+
M03 Saab 9-5 Aero Hirsch original Troll R 305 hk
M02 Saab 9-5 Aero B235R, konebilen
M94 Saab 900 B202L cabriolet
M72 Saab Sonett III, morobilprosjekt uten tidsplan
-
- 2.0 bar
- Innlegg: 700
- Registrert: 13 feb 2007, 23:27
- Medlemsnummer: N996
- Bil: SAAB 9-5 Aero 2001mod
- Sted: Nordland (Br.sund)
Et annet spm: Er det APC-boksen som man må stille på får å få turbon til å slå inn tidligere? tror ikke bilen min begynner å lade skikkelig før den kommer på 4000rpm. Da jeg fikk chipen var alt perfekt. men jeg begynte seffølgelig å stille på "polene" på APC`n. Så er det noen her som vet hvem av dem skruene som bestemmer hvor tidlig turbon skal slå inn? å om den skal skrues inn eller ut? å hva som kan være perfekt.
Saab 9-5 Aero, 2001mod
- Ingvar N629
- MAX BOOST
- Innlegg: 12871
- Registrert: 14 mar 2006, 16:41
- Medlemsnummer: 629
- Navn: Ingvar Garåsen
- Bil: 9-5, 9-3SS, 900, Sonett
- Sted: Rissa
Nei, har ikke noe med saken å gjøre. Mulig turboen din holder på å ta kvelden.Larisss skrev:Et annet spm: Er det APC-boksen som man må stille på får å få turbon til å slå inn tidligere?
Mean effective pressure is the substitute for cubic inches!
M09 Saab 9-3 Aero XWD, B207R+
M03 Saab 9-5 Aero Hirsch original Troll R 305 hk
M02 Saab 9-5 Aero B235R, konebilen
M94 Saab 900 B202L cabriolet
M72 Saab Sonett III, morobilprosjekt uten tidsplan
M09 Saab 9-3 Aero XWD, B207R+
M03 Saab 9-5 Aero Hirsch original Troll R 305 hk
M02 Saab 9-5 Aero B235R, konebilen
M94 Saab 900 B202L cabriolet
M72 Saab Sonett III, morobilprosjekt uten tidsplan
When you've installed your modified APC, you'll need to calibrate it.
Remember, that any testing, tuning, racing belongs on the track and not on a public road.
BTW, have you read the disclaimer? (about->disclaimer)
One thing that you should build/buy is a long APC cable.
This cable makes it possible to calibrate the APC without the stop 'n' go penalty.
Just plug in the cable between the APC and the ordinary contact. Then put the APC on the passenger seat and start the tuning process.
If you don't have a cable like this you'll have to stop the car, turn off the engine, dismantle the APC box, open it, do the changes and put it all back.
Then do the test-drive with the new setting. If it wasn't right, stop the car. Do this until you're satisfied.
Well, you can see that this takes time.
The tuning process (the mystery of the P and F)
On the APC there's three pot, s P,F and K.
The function:
P: Boost rise rate
F: Boost pressure
K: Knock threshold (NEVER EVEN THINK TO TOUCH THIS ONE!)
F sets the maximum boost and this one is not especially sensitive. P controls how fast the Boost pressure rises to the F-level. If P is set too low the Boost "crawls" up, set too high the boost will overshoot the F-level, and you will experience some real nasty boost spikes until it sets or until the APC lowers the boost due to knock. The worst-case scenario, the head gasket blows.
And now to the process.
Start by reducing the P-pot
Then set the F-pot at your desired level.
Now the really fine work is beginning. The P-pot is very sensitive. Just start low and work yourself up until the setting is right.
It's a lot of touch 'n' feel here.
(900aero.com)
Remember, that any testing, tuning, racing belongs on the track and not on a public road.
BTW, have you read the disclaimer? (about->disclaimer)
One thing that you should build/buy is a long APC cable.
This cable makes it possible to calibrate the APC without the stop 'n' go penalty.
Just plug in the cable between the APC and the ordinary contact. Then put the APC on the passenger seat and start the tuning process.
If you don't have a cable like this you'll have to stop the car, turn off the engine, dismantle the APC box, open it, do the changes and put it all back.
Then do the test-drive with the new setting. If it wasn't right, stop the car. Do this until you're satisfied.
Well, you can see that this takes time.
The tuning process (the mystery of the P and F)
On the APC there's three pot, s P,F and K.
The function:
P: Boost rise rate
F: Boost pressure
K: Knock threshold (NEVER EVEN THINK TO TOUCH THIS ONE!)
F sets the maximum boost and this one is not especially sensitive. P controls how fast the Boost pressure rises to the F-level. If P is set too low the Boost "crawls" up, set too high the boost will overshoot the F-level, and you will experience some real nasty boost spikes until it sets or until the APC lowers the boost due to knock. The worst-case scenario, the head gasket blows.
And now to the process.
Start by reducing the P-pot
Then set the F-pot at your desired level.
Now the really fine work is beginning. The P-pot is very sensitive. Just start low and work yourself up until the setting is right.
It's a lot of touch 'n' feel here.
(900aero.com)
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O - Saab 9-5 B235 Biopower MY98
O - Saab 9-5 B205 MY04
O - Saab 9-5 B235 MY06
O - Suzuki (Bandit) GSF 600n MY99
X - Saab 900 T16 B202 MY84 LH2.2[right]Bilde 2272x1704[/right]